I work near to a company which make excellent quality adapters for most lenses and wondered if anyone had some information as to whether any particular lenses were better than others.
Would be great to hear of any recommendations before I buy an adapter. As all manufacturers have some good and some less good lenses I don't think anyone can say 'Go xxx'. I happened to already have several Nikkors, so a Nikon adapter was the obvious choice.
Since then I've added on a Sigma mm zoom. I'm really pleased with the results from the Nikkors and have just one little niggle with the Sigma that I expect to get sorted out. When you are buying this sort of thing there are two things to bear in mind: technical quality and usability. I've got a Tamron mm zoom that works fine except it's prone to flare. It also has one of those combined push-pull to zoom and twist to focus control rings.
FujiFilm X-E1 Owner's Manual
Unfortunately that makes it harder to use for me than the Sigma's separate zoom and focus rings. I've used similar zooms in the past, but within the limitations of the Fuji focus aids I just don't like it. Nobody can "correctly" state that Nikon is better than Canon is better than Minolta is better than Olympus etc, etc. As long as you don't buy Novoflex, adapters are relatively inexpensive, generally less expensive than the cost of good, clean vintage lenses, so you may wind up with 2 or 3 different adapters.
Let us know which focal lengths you find most useful, how fast you want the lenses to be, then you can get some specific recommendations. Most good, fast primes from good, reputable mfrs will be pretty good. There's often considerable sample-to-sample variation, so even particular lenses with strong recommendations might not work great for you.
You gotta try and see. Most fast lenses are relatively soft wide-open and have fairly strong purple fringing. Optics designed 40yrs ago for film will not be as good wide-open as a native Fuji-X lens.
Please excuse typo errors. Older Nikon purely manual focus lenses work quite well.Quick Links Download this manual. For information on related products, visit our website at.
Table of Contents.
Be The Q Quick Menu Button sure that you have read and understood its contents before using the camera. Do not or electric shock. Do not store Do not allow water or foreign objects to enter the the battery with metallic products. Contact your Do not attempt to recharge a fully charged battery. The bat- FUJIFILM dealer to request internal cleaning every Do not use this camera in locations aff ected by oil tery does not however need to be fully discharged before two years.
Page 5 This section applies to all camera models. Other adapters could damage the camera. Page 6 Trademark Information Trademark Information infringe copyright laws without the consent of the owner.
The typefaces included herein are solely de- stage performances, entertainments, and exhibits, even veloped by DynaComware Taiwan Inc.
To prevent fi re or shock hazard, do not expose the unit to rain or moisture. For information on specifi c topics, consult the sources below.
Table of Contents Table of Contents P P x x Troubleshooting Troubleshooting Page 9: Product Care Interchangeable lenses: Use a blower to remove dust, then gently wipe with a soft, dry cloth.
Any remain- ing stains can be removed by wiping gently with a piece of FUJIFILM lens-cleaning paper to which a small amount of lens-cleaning fl uid has been applied. Replace the front and rear caps when the lens R Additional information that may be helpful when using the camera.
P Other pages in this manual on which related information may be found. Shutter button In the description that follows, all available indicators are shown for illustrative purposes; the indicators actually displayed vary with camera settings.
Open a strap clip.
Pass the clip through the eyelet. Use the clip attaching tool to open a strap clip, Rotate the clip fully through making sure that the tool and clip are in the the eyelet until it clicks Page 22 Attaching the Strap Insert the strap. Fasten the strap.Fujifilm has some amazing manual focus assist modes that combine cutting-edge technology with decades-old principles. But who actually uses manual focus anymore? But there are times when manual focus is the better option.
Here are some times when I personally prefer manual focus with my Fujifilm:. There are a number of different situations for different photographers where manual focus is better than autofocus, but these are a few to think about. Add in the advantages of mirrorless cameras and you have a robust manual focus system. One thing that really revolutionized my photography style was programming back-button focus in my Sony cameras. Back-button focus allows you to take advantage of autofocus while staying in manual focus.
Point the camera at your subject, press a button to quickly focus, and then recompose and shoot away. This is one more perk to staying in manual focus and learning how to back-button focus when the situation warrants. Fujifilm has four or three, depending on how you look at it Manual Focus Assist modes. They can be cycled by long-pressing the rear command dial wheel. Not all are available in all camera models.
No tricks here. This works best when the other focus assist modes are too distracting. The Focus Peak Highlight manual focus assist mode will highlight the areas of strong contrast between edges. Or, in other words, areas in focus. Focus peaking works well in most circumstances. It also works well in portraits to ensure the proper eye is in focus.My New Fuji - XE1
Did you ever use an old film SLR that had a split prism in the center of the screen to help you focus? This is the digital equivalent. Get more Fujifilm tips, inspiration, and discounts on upcoming courses delivered to your email. Straight lines will be broken up. They will be brought back into alignment as you bring everything in focus.
You can set either a color digital split image or a monochrome split image. I prefer the monochrome split image. This tool is hard enough to use, and color adds distractions.I know I ll have to magnify for each shot and I can use focus peaking. But is EVF fast enough without lagging? Or is it better to invest in X-pro1 with AF? I don't want X-T1 or X-E2. Funnily enough I have a Fuji XE-1 with a 50mm 1. I don't use focus peaking I always use the highest magnification mode though. The X-E1 only gets focus peaking if you update the firmware to the latest version.
The focus peaking on the X-E2 is much better. I have an X-E1, but I can't recommend it for manual focus. I am disappointed in the fact that the focus peaking color is white, and the color can't be changed.
On my Sony A, the focus peaking is red, which is much more easy to see than white focus peaking. Yes, you can use the X-E1 for manual focusing, but it just takes more time and concentration since the focus peaking is not as visible as it is on other cameras.
I just stick to AF on my X-E1. If I want to get a manual focus lens, I'll get it in E-mount for my A But otherwise, I really do enjoy having the X-E1. I bought it very inexpensively used so I think it was a good buy. I'm a huge fan of the X-E1but I too found manual focusing clunky and cumbersome. Wouldn't recommend it. The EVF gets pretty laggy on manual focus in all but the best lighting. After using all types of Fuji focus peaking on my X-Pro1 and X-T1 it's become obvious that standard magnified focus works best for me with Minolta and Minolta Rokkor lenses 24mm f2.
The sky is full of holes that let the rain get in, the holes are very small - that's why the rain is thin. Spike Milligan. I have the xe1 use it with 3x M42 manual lenses and I don't have a problem with manual focus. I use it with a combination of focus peaking and 10x magnification. If the lens is very contrasty then you wont have a problem with focus peaking.Using manual lenses with the Fujifilm X system is a great option to experiment and expand your camera system.
Third-party lens manufacturers such as Samyang produce very high quality and relatively affordable manual focus lenses.
Using Manual Lenses With the Fuji X System
Moreover, numerous adapters on the market open the doors to endless possibilities that span multiple brands and decades worth of lenses. Yes, you lose autofocus functionality, but the manual focus assist options provided by mirrorless cameras has made manual lenses very easy to use. Personally, I went for a combination of modern third-party and classic M42 screw mount lenses. Here is my manual focus Fuji X kit:. I had heard so many great things about this lens and I ended up buying it even before I had a camera to use it with.
Plus Samyang makes them in the native Fuji X mount, so no adapters necessary. It still continues to do so to this day.
I use filters a lot on this lens, so I just leave the filter holder on and use the square Cokin lens cap to protect it while in the bag. This lens is sharp especially when stopped down a bitsmall, built like a tank, and cheap! This gives me an equivalent reach of mm in a small, travel-friendly package. There is a wide range of adapters available on the market. Again, I will focus mainly on M42 lenses, which I have the most experience with. You can search Google for other kinds of lens adapters.
The latter two adapters mentioned have special optics inside that effectively make your camera perform like a full frame camera. The rest of them do pretty much the same thing.
Since this was just a fun experiment for me, I went for the cheapest one I could find. Since M42 lenses are screw-type, the lettering on the lenses may not always align properly.
Fuji X-E1 with old manual focus lenses
Fortunately, even the cheapest adapter comes with a hex key adjustment so you can adjust the lens alignment. Most of the adapters will allow the camera to focus to infinity and this is usually indicated in the product description.Note that because of the similarities between the X-E1 and X-Pro 1 in many of its key systems and specifications, some of the material in this review is adapted from previously-published content on the X-Pro 1.
When Fujifilm launched the X system in Januaryit did so with an unusually high-end body: the X-Pro1. The X-Pro1 was generally well-received, but its price was always likely to limit its appeal. The X-E1 is in essence a slimmed-down X-Pro1, with the large, complex and expensive hybrid finder replaced by a purely-electronic viewfinder. Not any old EVF though - it uses a 2. In return its rear screen is slightly downgraded in terms of both size and resolution, to a still-respectable 2.
The result is a compact body that's broadly similar in size to both the much-loved FinePix Xand its most obvious competitors like the E-M5 and NEX The X-E1 gets a few new features relative to the X-Pro1, commensurate with its class.
There's a little built-in pop-up flash, a 2. It's not just new hardware that Fujifilm has been working on; it's made some significant tweaks under the hood that promise better performance.
The good news for existing X-Pro1 owners is that they'll benefit equally from this, with the co-announced firmware version 2 offering all the same updates. File write times have been halved, and the camera can now enter playback to check focus and composition within about two seconds of shooting a single frame.
The most significant changes, though, have been made to focusing, both auto and manual. The Fujifilm X-E1 uses a new autofocus algorithm and different sensor drive mode, which promises significantly-improved speed, especially with the XF 60mm F2.
The 'feel' of the electronically-driven manual focus has been improved, and critically the camera now sets the aperture wide open in manual focus mode, finally allowing truly accurate focusing using the EVF. There's also a new 3x magnification mode to assist manual focus, which should be less prone to problems with shake when using long lenses.
Overall, this makes the X-E1 on paper a very strong competitor to other high-end EVF-equipped mirrorless models.
Its traditional control layout means it should appeal strongly to stills photographers, although its movie capabilities still lag behind the competition you can manually set the aperture, but have no control over the shutter speed the camera will use. This maybe a bit random but when shooting at the maximum fps will the X-E1 work better than the Fujifilm Finepix HS20exr because some of the shots i have gotten from my HS20 exr have been all right auto focus wise at the maximum fps for the sports that i take photos for which is the field events in athletics but im wondering if the X-E1 is better.
Size and weight is no concern. Which camera has better image quality and which one is more versatile? Between those two? The X-E1. The D will have better AF especially tracking moving subjects but for everyday shooting, the Fuji will do just fine. Also, you're saying size and weight don't matter?
Trust me, you they will very soon :D So yeah, Fuji. These are two very different cameras, regarding size, viefinder, and other things. Depends on what you need, and it's best to try them these reviews will cover specifications but quite often what matters to you might not be mentioned in reviews. I use the quick shortcut assigned to the Q or Fn? The one next to the shutter button button. There, you can quickly change the minimum shutter speed while using auto ISO. The 35mm F1.
Of course, this may not have been a point in choosing the 35mm over the 60mm back then. I understand why Fujifilm designed the lens rings with those slim grooves for stylistic reasons, but I find myself frequently turning the wrong one because they all feel the same.This 15th-century prophet was quoted as saying "The world to an end shall come, In eighteen hundred and eighty one" in a book published in 1862.
The last member died in 1901. It is already in progress, its beginning dating from October, 1874. God would "destroy the churches wholesale and the church members by the millions. In 1920 all earthly governments would disappear, with worldwide anarchy prevailing. He believed that the world was growing nearer and nearer to the Apocalypse due to what he viewed as the rampant immorality of the times in Europe. After the prophecy failed, he changed the date three more times.
The fallout of the group after the prediction failed was the basis for the 1956 book When Prophecy Fails. The failure of the prophecy led to the split of the sect into several subsects, the most prominent led by Benjamin and Lois Roden.
Dixon predicted a planetary alignment on this day was to bring destruction to the world. Mass prayer meetings were held in India. The Brahma Kumaris founder, Lekhraj Kirpalani, has made a number of predictions of a global Armageddon which the religion believes it will inspire, internally calling it "Destruction".
During Destruction, Brahma Kumari leaders teach the world will be purified, all of the rest of humanity killed by nuclear or civil wars and natural disasters which will include the sinking of all other continents except India.
Smith identified that he "could be wrong" but continued to say in the same sentence that his prediction was "a deep conviction in my heart, and all my plans are predicated upon that belief. After his September predictions failed to come true, Whisenant revised his prediction date to October 3. Later, after Prophet's prediction did not come to pass, she was diagnosed with epilepsy and Alzheimer's disease.
Berg predicted the tribulation would start in 1989 and that the Second Coming would take place in 1993. When it failed to occur he revised the date to September 29 and then to October 2. Applewhite, leader of the Heaven's Gate cult, claimed that a spacecraft was trailing the Comet Hale-Bopp and argued that suicide was "the only way to evacuate this Earth" so that the cult members' souls could board the supposed craft and be taken to another "level of existence above human".
Applewhite and 38 of his followers committed mass suicide. The 1st-century bishop of Edessa predicted this date to be the birth date of the Antichrist and the end of the universe.
Moreover, God would have the same physical appearance as Chen himself. Chen chose to base his cult in Garland, Texas, because he thought it sounded like "God's Land. He did not predict how it would occur, stating that it might involve nuclear devastation, asteroid impact, pole shift or other Earth changes. JenkinsThese Christian authors stated that the Y2K bug would trigger global economic chaos, which the Antichrist would use to rise to power.
As the date approached, however, they changed their minds. The leader of the True and Living Church of Jesus Christ of Saints of the Last Days predicted the Second Coming of Christ would occur on this day. According to her website, aliens in the Zeta Reticuli star system told her through messages via a brain implant of a planet which would enter our solar system and cause a pole shift on Earth that would destroy most of humanity.
This Japanese cult predicted the world would be destroyed by a nuclear war between October 30 and November 29, 2003. In his 1990 book The New Millennium, Robertson suggests this date as the day of Earth's destruction.
He prophesied nuclear explosions in U. After his prophecy failed to come true he changed the date for the return of Jesus Christ to May 27, 2012. When his original prediction failed to come about, Camping revised his prediction and said that on May 21, a "Spiritual Judgment" took place, and that both the physical Rapture and the end of the world would occur on October 21, 2011.
Others predicted that Elenin would collide with Earth on October 16. Scientists tried to calm fears by stating that none of these events were possible. The 2012 phenomenon predicted the world would end at the end of the 13th b'ak'tun.